General Maintenance on a Driverz Cup car (Formula Vee), and others!

• Weight & Balance
  • A balanced car is essential to be in control and go fast. Never put ballast outside of the axle centerlines. Move weight to the back if it is loose (oversteer) and to the front if it is tight (push). The normal force (straight down) is more important than Centripetal force (slingshot) for grip. The car is balanced if it becomes loose when entering a corner and tight on exit. You want to be able to steer the car with the throttle. A steel plate in the floor is the best ballast for lowering the mass center.
• Tire Pressures & Temps
  • Start off with a baseline pressure. Come into the pits after a hot lap and immediately take tire temps with an infrared or probe meter and write down inside, middle and outside temps, as well as, the pressure. If the middle temp is highest, lower the pressure. If the inside temp is highest, take out camber. If the outside temp is highest, add camber. 
• Shock & Spring settings
  • Rebound adjustment should be stiff, while Compression should be soft to medium. 
  • Rear spring rates are determined by the geometry, but softer is generally better than stiffer. Too stiff will skate or chatter when sliding.
• Engine
  • Starting procedure
    • Put the trans in neutral and do not push on the clutch. 
    • Crank while pumping the gas until it fires. LOW revs until oil pressure is rising. 
    • When oil pressure is reached, rev between 2000 & 3000 rpm, on & off easily, for 1-2 minutes.
    • When going to the grid, use first gear and hold at 3k rpm. This will heat the engine faster and keep from glazing the cylinders with oil.
    • When the engine is hot, do not idle. Starting hot, do not pump and hold the throttle wide open until it cranks.
  • Valve adjustment – (video below)
    • Place it 4th gear and jack up the wheel just off the ground on the side you are adjusting so that you can turn the motor over with the wheel. When the intake valve finishes closing, adjust the exhaust valve of the same cylinder. When the exhaust valve starts to open, adjust the intake valve. 
  • Ignition timing
    • 36° – 37° BTDC is good unless your engine builder says otherwise.
  • Headers
    • Longer primaries are better for low end torque, but overall, headers don’t show much on the dyno.
    • Some collectors are better than others, but I would look elsewhere for more power like the intake and carb.
  • Carb
    • A small venturi change can make a big difference.
    • There seems to be a little mystery as to why some carbs work better than others. Swap them out and test. Always carry a spare. 
  • Intake manifold
    • Biggest power difference is in the manifold. The rules, unfortunately, have been changed over the years rather than kicking out illegal ones and making those worthless. Use copper gaskets (BelMetric) and not steel ones. The softer copper seals better and these don’t flatten out as much as others and therefore can be re-used. Be careful to center each manifold flange on the head as many motors are shorter than stock.
  • Sump
    • 1.5 liter sumps are now legal and will save your motor, especially if there is a leak. Extra oil will run cooler and lower in the case for less windage. 
    • Accusumps are even more protection if you can afford the room and weight.